If you think outrigger canoeing has no relevance to SUP then you may like to consider that the best exponents of the sport are in fact outrigger canoe paddlers from Hawaii, California, Australia and now Tahiti (and I'm talking in terms of 'paddling ability', not surfing by way of a clear distinction). Outrigger canoeing in the UK, is essentially unheard of with only a few practicing the sport, however elsewhere where the sport has flourished outrigger canoeing is also present, a gene pool from which SUP has thrived.
Regardless of this fact, part of my work over 20 years throughout the Pacific, has been predominantly concerned with the demystification of the mythology which surrounds what constitutes good paddling technique. Many factors have affected (canoe) paddling technique; paddle design, cultural dogma, traditional values and the ever present dissemination of tribal knowledge past down through the generations. Whereas American Indians paddled canoes to some level of expertise, it was the cultures of Oceania consisting of Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia who truly set about perfecting the art, finally brought about to some level of perfection through a melding of Anglo Australian, Canadian, American and European notions of what represents good paddling technique derived from river paddling and open ocean ocean surf ski paddling. In point of fact, the undisputed world's best outrigger canoe paddlers hail today from French Polynesia; and include those paddlers of Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Huahine, Raiatea and beyond to the Austral Islands.
Whereas Olympic sports have been turned into a science, outrigger canoeing and now indeed SUP remain largely an intuition and therefore the notion of tribal dissemination of knowledge prevails in the absence of statistical imperial proof other than he who wins, must be best. But best may just mean strongest, fittest, most experienced, not necessarily, best in terms of technical merit. Regardless, sound technical skills remain paramount in order to sculpt the body, bring about maxim efficiency and to ensure the brain is engaged with each stroke taken, however instinctual ones paddling has become.
One analogy I like to use is that of the wily old squash player. When you first take up squash and you play an experienced player, they will surely run you ragged and this scenario goes on indefinitely. You smash the ball as hard as you can, but they return it with effortless effort having preempted your every move. You sweat and swear whilst the wise and composed player stands their, fresh and relaxed, slowly grinding you into the ground and so too will your paddling if your vision of it is purely physical.
I see folk concerning themselves over the efficacy of using either long, short, deep, shallow strokes and whether these should be fast or slow, when in point of fact a truly accomplished paddler, with great paddle skills, will use all of these variations when required to blend with the liquidity and ever changing dynamics of that which is water. Talking in terms of one stroke type, one stroke rate which works best for you, is to presuppose a static environment.
If I had to provide for you a mental picture of how to perceive your paddling:
Imagine ahead of you a series of near vertical poles cemented into the seabed, your board on rails. You reach and grab a pole and pull yourself up to it, accelerating the boards speed, releasing it at the appropriate time to allow your board to glide towards the next successive pole, reaching and grabbing at it the moment before the board begins to loose inertia, hence keeping the board accelerating and only decelerating minimally.
Rotational torque around the spine, utilising the larger muscle groups is the key to powerful, sustainable paddling. The first part of your stroke should initiate lift. The arms must not be hyperextended (old school) bent elbows bring about greater blade control and power delivery and avoidance of push via the top arm (old school) through the trapeziums is critical as this negates the vertical positioning of the blade prematurely. In addition we are anatomically better at pulling than pushing.
(Note: Water is compressed against the blade face with sufficient force, so that it does not spill away from its edges. It anchors itself. Poor blade shape, poor catch 'cavitation due to air bubbles along the back-face of the blade' will lead to blade slippage or feathering during the pull phase)
The blade is entered via rotation around the hips (waist) and a lowering of the leading shoulder, the top arm cocked backward at the elbow, thereby angling the blade face forwards and upwards, extending your reach and encouraging lift of the board after the catch is made. Straight arms, diminishes reach. Contact with the water can only be brought about by 'falling' forwards from the hips which affectively drives the hull downwards, bringing about greater drag and resistance negating board run.
The top arm works in a downward and transverse direction across the body towards the paddling side (not forwards) following the line of the shoulders, which follow the line and rotation of the hips being driven by the larger muscles of the torso front and back. In affect the torso, winds and unwinds, delivering the bulk of the power, which transfers to the bodies gearbox, the legs and feet which bring about forward movement via this linkage. Ensure the top and lower hand are 'hand over hand' and that the blade is pulled parallel along the edges of the board. The top arm ceased downward pressure mid way through the stroke so as the entire emphasis is on rotation via twisting to generate forward motion.
Importantly, some 75% of the propulsive power occurs in the first 7" of pull. Once the shaft reaches vertical, we need to keep our top and lower hands, 'hand over hand' maintaining rotation around the spine controlling the power to the blade by temporarily locking the arms during this rotational power phase, until such time as the lower arm naturally wants to bend and therefore relax. This is generally when the blade is level with the hips. Past this point 'pull becomes push' and the blade affectively stalls as it angles upwards. Continued push at this point, will keep the blade 'loaded' and prevent water spilling off the blade face, pulling the board downwards negating varying degrees of the propulsive power delivered to the board during the forward power phase of the stroke. A quick snappy exit away from the side of the board, whilst feathering the blade is the recommended technique.
Think in terms of breaking your stroke into phases.
1. Set up (just prior to blade entry)
2. Entry
3. Catch (when blade is fully submersed and ready to be 'loaded')
4. Power
5. Exit
6. Recovery (swing through to set up)
One of the most incredulous levels of logic which prevails, is that a cheap, poorly designed paddle will suffice. Consider yourself as a paddler first and foremost. It cannot be stressed enough that a good stick is half the battle. I have owned up to 30 outrigger canoe paddles over 20 years and currently own 5 SUP paddles and will continue to build a quiver as circumstance dictate.
I know some of this information may be in conflict with what you've heard and that's ok. You're not obliged to accept my offering. Whatever path you take with your paddling technique and eventual style, will no doubt be the sum total of all that you know, devoid of that which you reject. Whatever you decide to keep, ensure you do so on account of the rationale, it has thought behind it, not mere fact and say so.